Fat-tailed geckos are becoming increasingly more popular and are starting to be bred more. Even though you can get imports at a lower price, they will probably have internal parasites, will be rough-looking and sometimes will be missing tails.
To preserve wild populations, captive-bred choices are the better option.
Cage and Bedding
Fat-tailed geckos are easy to house. A 10-gallon tank will work for one male and two females. A 20-gallon tank or larger can house one male and up to five females. Do not house males together, as they are territorial and will hurt each other.
Use coconut fiber or Repitbark for the bedding. You can spot clean it as needed and replace it every four to six weeks.
Heating for Your Fat-Tailed Gecko
Put a heating pad on the bottom of one side of the tank for heat. A heat lamp can be used but will dry out the air and make shedding difficult.
The ambient temperature should be about 80 degrees Fahrenheit with a hotspot of about 90 degrees. No additional lighting is required besides standard room lighting, as the fat-tailed gecko is nocturnal.
Do not use UV bulbs; they can damage the gecko’s eyes.
Give the fat-tailed gecko at least two places to hide. One should be on the cool side of the tank, and the other should be on the hot side. More hiding spots can give the gecko favorite places to hide.
Each hiding spot should be large enough to hold all the geckos at the same time to prevent fighting.
Fat-tailed geckos require some humidity, especially during shredding, so put some damp moss or paper towel in the cool hiding spot to keep the gecko hydrated. Spray with water to keep it rehydrated. This “wet hiding spot” will help the fat-tailed geckos with shedding and keep them cool when they need it.
Lightly spray the tank every few days to maintain humidity levels of between 40 to 50 percent. Spray the moss or paper towel once a week or as needed to keep moist. Replace the wet hide bedding to avoid mold build-up every two to four weeks.
Fat-Tailed Gecko Diet
Like most geckos, the fat-tailed gecko is an insectivore. It will eat crickets, phoenix worms, mealworms, waxworms and tiny pinky mice. Dust the insects with calcium/multivitamin supplement every other feeding to ensure proper bone growth and vitamin D3 intake.
Don’t let too many uneaten crickets wander the cage, as they will annoy and nibble on the gecko’s toes. Leave some cricket food out to keep them occupied and gut loaded.
Feed the gecko daily to three times a week, depending on how much it eats.
Provide a water dish big enough for the gecko to lie in but not deeper than standing height.